Why climbing Uluru shouldn’t be banned – and why you shouldn’t climb it

Future of tourism at Uluru

Sydney Morning Herald blogger Clive Dorman has sparked a big debate on the future of tourism at Uluru (the monolith formerly known as Ayers Rock). His reaction seems to be that if you can’t climb the rock, then there’s no point in visiting.

Background to climbing debate

That, frankly, is bollocks. But first, a bit of background into the climbing debate. The Anangu* are the traditional owners of the land that Uluru sits on, and it was returned to them by the Australian government in 1985.

The negotiations over this were somewhat protracted, and as part of the deal, the Anangu were pushed into agreeing to two things. The first was that Uluru would be leased back as a National Park for 99 years, and the second was that tourists would be allowed to climb it.

Traditional owners’ views on climbing

The traditional owners have always been very clear on their views about climbing Uluru: they don’t want people to do it, and have always requested that visitors forgo the climb.

This is partly due to cultural reasons – Uluru is deemed a sacred site – and partly because of safety. Climbing Uluru is very hard work, often undertaken in searing heat, and (at least) 35 people have died climbing it.

Climbing ban proposal

Earlier this year, the Director of National Parks proposed that climbing Uluru should be banned in future, and the Government threw the issue open for consultation. Hence the debate, and Clive Dorman’s controversial post.

Revisiting Uluru

I am planning to drive up the centre of Australia next year, and visit Uluru again. I have been once before, as part of a tour in 2003. Back then, I didn’t climb, although that was more due to the fact that I went over on my ankle the previous day than any ethical concerns.

This time, I’m older, (hopefully) wiser and better informed. I will not be climbing – but not because of any supposed spiritual significance.

Sacrilegious?

To me, the argument that we shouldn’t climb Uluru because it is sacrilegious to do so is fraught with holes. I’ll lay my cards on the table here – I am an atheist, and it is my opinion that every belief should be open to scrutiny. I don’t see why a belief should be automatically given respect and a free ride just because it’s a religious belief. If it’s nonsense, it’s nonsense, irrespective of how deeply the view is held.

Rite of passage

And herein lies part of the problem. The Anangu are very sketchy about why tourists shouldn’t climb Uluru. The most you’ll get is that the climb route follows a route taken by the ancestral Mala people. It’s extremely vague, and that’s partly because Aboriginal tradition dictates that certain knowledge and stories are only passed down to certain people. As far as I can ascertain, it’s something of a rite of passage system – young Anangu are only told when they have earned the right to know. I am not an expert on this, so I am open to correction.

Spiritual significance argument

Alas, to the average visitor, this ‘spiritual significance’ explanation simply isn’t good enough. They may as well be told they shouldn’t climb because a giant green fairy once did her special magic dance there. If you want people to understand, you have to attempt a proper explanation. It doesn’t help that some members of the Anangu DO climb Uluru, and always have done. The explanation that it’s OK for some special members of our people and not for members of your people simply isn’t going to wash.

Common courtesy

I have little respect for the ‘spiritual significance’ argument, but will not climb Uluru for the same reasons I’ll not shout out swear words in a church, take my trousers down in a synagogue or wander through a mosque doing the Stayin’ Alive dance. And that reason is that the people who own the place would prefer that I didn’t.

In other words, common courtesy.

I may not agree with someone’s reasons for requesting that someone doesn’t do something, but if I am their guest, then I will abide by the request.

And it is the hosting guests side of the Don’t Climb argument that is much stronger. People die, and suffer serious injuries climbing Uluru. Imagine how you’d feel if someone came to your house for a party and died trying to shimmy up a drainpipe or swing on a light fitting above the staircase? Yes, they arguably shouldn’t have been doing it in the first place, but if someone dies on your property then it’s still extremely distressing. The same applies for the Anangu.

The magic of Uluru

The second main reason why I won’t climb Uluru is also the reason why Clive Dorman’s viewpoint on the matter is complete bollocks. When I was on my way to Uluru the first time, I was expecting a massive damp squib. Instead, I saw why so many visitors describe it as magical. It’s the nooks, the crannies, the undulations and the changes of colour that make Uluru so visually impressive, not the height and steepness.

When you throw in the stories of what each individual area is traditionally used for – this is one walk that is infinitely better with a guide – the walk around the base of Uluru is much more fascinating than the climb up it. To go up and not around is to fast forward through a great film, stopping only for the bits with big explosions. It’s the thrill of the icing without the context of the cake.

What visitors need to know

And this is the argument that should be hammered home. Some people will always be rude and not respect their host’s wishes. Others, like me, have no time for ‘spiritual’ or ‘religious’ arguments. But convince them that walking round is so much more rewarding than climbing up, and you’ll have far fewer people wanting to climb.

Why climbing Uluru shouldn’t be banned

But this doesn’t mean that climbing Uluru should be banned. The arguments (particularly the ‘sacred’ one) for it simply don’t stand up. Religious beliefs shouldn’t come into freedom of movement – it’s discrimination of the most dubious kind. And if you ban climbing the rock on safety grounds, then you may as well ban swimming in the ocean too.

The natural solution

A much better solution would be to restore the rock to its original state. Remove the handrail, allow the path to weather naturally and it’s virtually impossible for all but the most bloody-minded to get up anyway.

*Anangu is the Pitjantjatjara word for people. Technically, the Pitjantjatjara and Yankunytjatjara are the traditional owners of Uluru. I have used the commonly-used Anangu for the sake of clarity.

For a good overview of the climbing debate, this factsheet at Reconciliation.org.au does a fine job of explaining the key points.

Do you think climbing Uluru should be banned? Share your thoughts by leaving a comment below.

Tags: Australia, religious travel, Uluru