Treviso, Italy: An unsung day trip from Venice
Long overshadowed by its more famous neighbours, Treviso is becoming a highly attractive destination in its own right, as David Whitley discovers.
Frescos of Tomasa da Modena
It’s one of those doors that you open tentatively. There’s no-one outside guarding it, and it’s hard to escape that nagging doubt that you’re not really supposed to be there. As it creaks open, though, the naughty schoolboy smirk is replaced by something altogether more open-mouthed.
Inside is a blaze of colour, the decorative patterning on the walls framing a truly special work of art. Right at the top, just tucked under the ceiling are the paintings of 40 Dominican monks, going about their daily business.
Well, OK, it’s realistically 37, as the last three have succumbed to the ravages of time, but this doesn’t for a second detract from Tomaso da Modena’s fabulous effort.
The frescos were painted in 1352, and are generally thought to be way ahead of their time, both in their realistic depictions and the deliberate introduction of personality to his subjects.
Monks of the Sala del Capitolo dei Dominicani
Ostensibly, all the monks are copying out manuscripts, but it’s the little differences between each one that make the room an absolute treasure. Some are scribbling furiously, others are more pensive and studious; some are in broad-brimmed red hats, others in bishops’ mitres or exposing bald patches.
One points at his book as if to say: “What a load of nonsense, huh?” while another’s eyes have so many bags around them that sleep cannot be far away.
Monk number 12 is of special interest – if you look closely, he is holding a magnifying glass, and this is thought to be the first one ever depicted.
The most astonishing thing isn’t the painting, however, but where it is found. This room, the Sala del Capitolo dei Dominicani is tucked away in a seminary, through the cloisters adjoined to the church of San Nicolò, Treviso’s oldest religious building.
It is, of course, an effort worthy of any of the world’s great museums, but here you effectively have your very own mini art gallery. And because there doesn’t appear to be another foreigner for miles around, you have it all to yourself.
There’s a box in which you can put a few coins as a donation towards the lighting, but aside from that there’s not the faintest hint that this could be a draw for tourists from around the world.
Treviso: A tourist-free zone?
And that, in essence, is the joy of Treviso; you don’t feel like you’re being herded around, shunted towards anything or being pressured into buying cheap and nasty souvenirs. Despite the valiant, and often quite puzzling, attempts of the local tourist board, it simply isn’t a tourist city.
This is partly because it is somewhat outpunched by its neighbours. Right in the heart of the Veneto, it’s hard to contend with the likes of the Dolomites, Padua, Vicenza and Verona on your doorstep.
The main shadow is but half-an-hour away, though; Venice.
City of Water?
Absurdly, Treviso is trying to pitch itself as the City Of Water, an undiscovered Venice. It’s a nice try, but it’s not going to fool anyone. It’s like saying Sheffield is quite like Oxford because it has a university – if you’re going to pick a fight, there’s no point doing it on your rival’s strong point.
It may have some rather picturesque waterways, but Treviso is so delightful precisely because it isn’t Venice. It’s a real Italian city, full of understated character and underplayed attractions.
Tourism infrastructure
Particularly if you’ve come from that place next door that we shan’t mention, the lack of holidaymaker infrastructure is totally refreshing. It’s great to be able to trot out the standard one-sentence-of-Italian line, “parla un piccolo d’inglese?”, and be met with sheer panic.
Elsewhere, it would be met in near fluent English, accompanied by well-rehearsed directions, which would then be repeated in perfect German for the Austrian chap next to you.
Here, it’s a collaborative effort of elaborate gestures, snippets of shared languages and pointing at things. And sometimes, that’s just the way it should be.
Piazza dei Signori
The heart of town is the Piazza dei Signori, and there’s always something going on there, even if you can’t quite work out why. Today, the paving is absolutely covered in confetti.
Parents are throwing it over their kids, and the kids are throwing it over each other, merrily egged on by a couple of clowns.
The colourful entertainers are handing out giant balloons to anyone under the age of about 24, then reaching for a sneaky glass of wine whenever they think no-one’s looking.
The children are all in costume, and it’s no quick rumble through mummy and daddy’s old clothes to whip up a makeshift pirate either. The mini tigers, ducks and medieval princesses have clearly come straight from the best costume shop available, almost as though there’s a huge sense of pride taken in making your child look utterly ridiculous.
Fashion in Treviso – Benetton
Such a well-honed sense of fashion, be it for casual gear or Teletubby outfits, shouldn’t really come as too much of a surprise; Treviso is the home of Benetton. A flagship store can be found in the piazza, next to the looming red-brick Palazzo dei Trecento, although it’s empty barring the shop assistants.
This seems curious until you discover that all the Benetton employees do their (and their friends and family’s) shopping in the special edge-of-town factory outlets.
Old Town
Away from all the clowning is a lovely old town. That word – ‘lovely’ – is chosen carefully, as it fits like a glove. There’s nothing spectacular or spellbinding, but plenty that’s wonderfully pleasant.
The waterways are the obvious place to start. The River Sile and the canals formed from it are attractive in a different way to those of Venice. Here it’s ducks and swans that make their way under cute little bridges rather than gondolas and freight-laden boats.
Just before dusk, in particular, the setting is gorgeous, with the mill wheels and pastel-coloured buildings being reflected in the water.
In the middle of the main canal is a little man-made island that has a marvellously unreal quality to it. It was created so that the fish market could be hygienically isolated from the rest of the city, and now it’s the place to be in the morning.
Fish market
“Fresca, fresca, signora!” chants one of the fishmongers, obviously aggrieved at the suggestion that his tasty morsels could be anything but fresh. In front of him is a veritable aquarium.
Two big monsters of the deep look so recently-caught that they still have the doleful I-might-be-dying-here look in their eyes. To their right are huge jars of shrimps, and draped over them is a slovenly octopus. This is not, it has to be said, an island to visit if you’re hungry and weak-willed.
Treviso city walls
Then there are the city walls. It’s been a long time since Treviso has been threatened by medieval invaders, but large amounts of the fortifications remain. The longest stretch joins the northern and eastern compass points, and is followed by a canal most of the way.
The top of the wall is now a walking track, prettied up by all manner of flowers and trees. It seems to be the place to go for the town’s loved-up young couples, as well as the odd rabbit.
OK, it’s no safari, but Treviso’s nature charms in much the same, completely unhyped way as its culture. It’s not in your face, but keep your eyes flickering around, and you’re in for a series of treats.
Perhaps the best example of this is what looks like a worn down portico in the main shopping district. The narrow red bricks look like they’ve seen better days, and on closer inspection you can see why.
Loggia di Cavalieri
This is the Loggia di Cavalieri, which used to be a meeting place for noblemen back in the 13th century. Today it doesn’t really have a defined use – sometimes it’s an impromptu market, sometimes a thoroughfare, sometimes just a place for a couple of young mothers to leave the prams and sit on the wall for a chat.
But look up, and you can see where Treviso gets its nickname – the painted city – from. Right at the top, above the plain columns and arches is another endearing fresco, apparently a rigorous depiction of the Trojan wars. It looks more like a cartoon strip of men on horseback, but that’s not really the point.
It’s that it’s there in the first place that sums the city up – anywhere else it would be plastered over extensive promotional brochures.
In Treviso it’s just there, no airs, graces or pretences. And the neighbours simply can’t offer that.
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