David Whitley explores Ukraine’s capital, and finds it to be every bit as beautiful as Prague or Budapest
Museum of the Great Patriotic War
On a list of things you don’t expect to see on a walk through the park, tanks, helicopters and anti-aircraft guns would have to be near the top.
But there they are, spread out as if they’re climbing frames or see-saws. And the oddities don’t finish there – the path leads to a sculpture-laden underpass. Carved into the rock are giant scenes of stern-faced peasants working the land, and chisel-jawed soldiers charging with bayonets.
And then, once out of the unlikely outdoor art gallery, comes The Museum of the Great Patriotic War. The museum itself is mildly interesting, but it’s what’s on top that’s striking.
The 62m-high silver statue of a woman holding a sword and shield aloft looms above Kiev. It elicits a “what on earth is that?” on the approach from the airport, and continually pops up on the horizon from the bridges, riverbanks and leafy hills.
Kiev’s surprises
Kiev is absolutely packed with such surprises. You never quite know what’s going to be around the corner. It might be the open air gym made from scrap metal on an island in the middle of the River Dnipro; it could be the cute little funicular railway by the boat terminal; it could be the museum of micro-miniature art in the monastery complex, with its portraits on poppy seeds and what is claimed to be the world’s smallest book.
Kiev – beautiful?
The biggest surprise of all, however, is just how gorgeous Kiev is. The Ukrainian capital is far from the mental image that many of us carry of grim, concrete-doused former Soviet cities. It’s easily as beautiful as Prague or Budapest, but tourist numbers are far lower. At times, it can feel like it’s just you, the locals and a fabulous shared secret.
It’s a secret that more people are about to be let in on. Up until now, no budget airlines have flown into the Ukraine. Wizz Air is the first to offer a direct flight to the largest country entirely within Europe, and Kiev is a mighty impressive gateway.
Walking route through Kiev
If the joys of the city can be summed up in a short stroll, then it’s the walk through the park by the Parliament building. The Parliament itself is not all that impressive, but the blue palace next to it is delightful. At the end of the path is a look out over the river, and then a left turn leads into parkland. This is something Kiev has more than its fair share of – it’s a remarkably green city. Follow along, and there’s a constant stream of unforeseen encounters – a small concert arena, Dynamo Kiev’s football stadium hidden in a gully, and a giant metal arch designed to symbolise the friendship between Russia and the Ukraine.
On the way, there’s a bridge, from where it’s possible to look out on the river one way and the golden domes and monuments of the city the other. The bridge is covered in padlocks, which seems odd until you learn of the local tradition. As a declaration of love, couples etch their names onto locks, attach the lock to the bridge and then throw away the key. It’s designed to show that that they’ll be joined together forever.
The Lavra
Kiev’s big set piece is the Lavra. World Heritage-listed by UNESCO, this extraordinary religious complex was founded in 1051 by St Antoniy, and is regarded as the holiest place in the Ukraine.
Thus the tourists mix with the pilgrims. Don’t be surprised to find a group of them doing laps of the Dormiton Cathedral, chanting away as if their lives depended on it.
The cathedral is a year 2000 copy of the original, but that doesn’t detract from the setting. On the hill above the river, its shimmering domes compliment the multitude of others across the city. In the other direction, the ubiquitous silver woman towers over like King Kong.
The Upper Lavra is government-owned, and among the churches it has a collection of quirky museums that feature everything from ancient gold to folk art. But it’s the Church-owned Lower Lavra that’s truly fascinating.
This is where St Antoniy and company carved out artificial caves in the rock, using them as secluded places in which to study and worship. Much of the complex is still sealed off by the veritable army of monks that still maintain the premises.
They’re everywhere, clad in thick black habits that are hardly suited to gardening or pushing wheelbarrows around. It must get mighty sweaty on a summer day.
The monks that most visitors come to see, however, are underground. The caves are lined by the mummified corpses of the monastery’s former inhabitants, including St Antoniy. It’s possible to enter the underground labyrinth at two points, and it’s very claustrophobic, lit only by candles.
Wandering through behind the pious pilgrims is quite an experience. They cross themselves frenetically, and bend to kiss the feet (or at least the glass box encasing the feet) of the holy mummies.
Hydropark
The best views of the Lavra come from the part of Kiev that’s about as unholy as you can get. Hydropark is an island in the river, and it acts as the city’s playground. There are fairground rides, paintball arenas, nightclubs, and what is possibly the world’s largest collection of table tennis tables.
The river banks have been enterprisingly turned into beaches, and given the faintest glimpse of a sunny day, half the city appears to strip down to swimming gear and hit the sand.
The cafés that line the beach, therefore, are prime people-watching territory. And most are rather atmospheric, cooking shwarmas on traditional wood-fire barbecues outside.
Anywhere else, a place like this would have been turned into an ugly concrete monstrosity accompanied by a thumping soundtrack of really loud music. But Hydropark has retained its charm. In between the ghost trains, bouncy castles and beer stalls, it’s mainly forest, and it doesn’t take long to get away from the hubbub.
That is, of course, if you want to. Hydropark is home to a few of the more popular nightspots but, in keeping with the city’s character, many of Kiev’s best bars can be found in unexpected places. Art Club 44 (44 Vul Kreshchatyk) is a classic example – it can only be found after going through a deeply unpromising archway, but once down the stairs, it’s a hive of beautiful people, wallet-friendly drink prices and Cuban salsa bands.
Vul Kreschchatyk
That said, many of the locals don’t bother with the bars at all. Vul Kreschchatyk is the Kiev’s main drag, and even during the daytime it has quite a swagger. The buildings are all designed to impress, and the dress code seems to match – it’s one giant catwalk.
Come the evening, though, it’s the meeting place. Beer is classed as a soft drink in the Ukraine, and thus it’s perfectly acceptable to drink it in the street. Kiev’s bright young things will spill out over benches, walls and bollards, chatting away and swigging from their bottles until the early hours.
At the weekend, it’s an even bigger outdoor bar – the whole street is pedestrianised, and it’s not uncommon for temporary stages to go up for free music gigs.
But, by this point, it shouldn’t really come as a surprise to see the main thoroughfare turned into the venue for a rock concert. This is Kiev – expect the unexpected.
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