David Whitley steps off the major tourist routes to discover the secrets of the Venetian Republic and the spots where the locals still live.
Christmas wrapping
There comes a time when every loving parent lets out a Christmas sigh. Their little darling has gleefully torn open the wrapping of the all-singing, all-dancing present that a small fortune has been spent on.
It flashes, it whirrs, it comes with 712 different changeable parts and probably has more technology in it than the latest space shuttle. And then… it’s left on the side for five hours while the kids play with the empty box it came in.
Doge’s Palace, St Mark’s Square
Venice is a bit like that. It is absolutely crammed with goodies – magnificent galleries, truly unique churches and cathedrals and stunning architectural achievements – but the bits that you get the most joy from are often the most ordinary.
The Doge’s Palace in St Mark’s Square is a classic case in point. In terms of location, it’s got everything. You walk in straight in front of the Grand Canal, and you can see the domes of St Mark’s Basilica putting a little hat on the palace’s decorative archways.
It’s quite a sight for any visitor, as it was most surely intended to be, and no-one can fail to be in awe when solemnly walking up the golden staircase.
At the top of the steps are the state rooms, all lavish ornamentation and priceless art, but through a big wooden door lies something far more intriguing: lots and lots of small, drab, wooden boltholes.
Offices of the Venetian Republic
These remarkably plain offices were where the Venetian Republic was actually run from, away from the visiting dignitaries who needed to be impressed by sparkly things and big comfy chairs.
Even the room of the Grand Chancellor, who was elected for life to run the everyday activities of the Republic, is ridiculously Spartan. He gets a wooden chair, a wooden desk and the sort of low ceiling that makes the highest office in the land seem rather like a prison cell.
Given what’s upstairs, that would hardly come as a surprise, as the Doge’s Palace was doing multi-purpose way before anybody dreamed up community centres. Past the offices and the record archive is a torture chamber, as if such a thing is a natural addition to the back end of a library.
There are also some real prison cells, including the one that attempted to contain legendary romantic rogue Giacomo Casanova.
Casanova and the Secret Itinerary tour
The story of his escape, involving corrupt priests, bibles, platters and sheer brass-neckery, is regaled on the ‘Secret Itinerary’ tour of the palace, which finishes in the most ordinary- yet-most fascinating room of all. It’s the attic, in which you can walk across the huge beams that stop the whole building from collapsing. It’s a different way of looking at things, that’s for sure.
But the Doge’s Palace is one of those wonderfully flashy toys, as is the basilica, as are the galleries packed with priceless treasures. All of them would grab the attention and not let go in any other city but, by heavens, they’re in a lovely box.
Walking along the canals
Strip out the hotels, the restaurants, the churches and the museums and Venice would still be one of the world’s great tourist attractions. There is something utterly delightful about simply walking along, over quaint bridges and alongside tiny canals.
Try heading out at about 8.30am, and you get to follow the crowd on what is perhaps the most bewitching walk into work the world can muster.
Later on, it’s best to head away from the tourists and to where the Venetians actually live. This, pretty much, means anywhere east of St Mark’s Square.
Castello district
The Castello district generally doesn’t get touched upon too much by the tour groups, and you don’t live in fear of the hawkpigeons that idiots with bags of breadcrumbs insist on feeding.
In fact, the further away from St Mark’s you get, the more peaceful and pretty it is. Yes, there are people strolling through the parkland and remembrance gardens, but they’re just going about their daily business.
It’s the green part of the city, and the canals are stripped of their tight urban setting, hemmed in by walls and front doors. You could actually be forgiven for thinking that you’re in the countryside.
Darsena di Sant Elena
Until, of course, you emerge at the lagoon, which would have to be the wrapping paper to Venice’s cardboard box of tricks and stimulated imaginations. If you ever wondered where all the boats that spend all day charging across the waterways end up, then here is your answer.
The Darsena di Sant Elena is a huge marina, and it gives the impression of a pretty Mediterranean fishing village, but without the grotesque tug boats spoiling the view.
With the sun twinkling on the water, the sails, masts and flapping tarpaulins are a special sight. Most visitors to Venice, however, will never have seen it. After all, the Venetians have invested too much in their top of the range presents to let you just go off and play with the box.
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